After Frida Giannini left her role as the Creative Director of Gucci in January – earlier than expected by both the industry and the company – the menswear collection was redesigned entirely in a matter of days. A feminine, slouchy collection replaced the original designs. Blouses, bows and intricate lace showed a softer aesthetic than had been seen in the sharp tailoring and definitive masculinity of previous seasons.
The collection signified the official debut of new Creative Director Alessandro Michele, who showed a beautifully romantic womenswear collection for A/W15 on Wednesday, the first day of Milan fashion week. Sending a languid abundance of prints floating down the runway, the man who previously held the title of Head of Accessories, confirmed murmurs that the Italian house was entering a dramatically new era.
There was a comfortable drifting in the tiered dresses with loose ruffles, a softness in the pussy bow blouses and a relaxed floppiness to the suit trousers. All combined together to result in the nostalgic appeal of a Wes Anderson film. And yet, in spite of the freedom and wearability of the clothing, the construction, technique and embellishment were as precise and considered as would be expected from the Gucci powerhouse – combining the utmost in craftsmanship with a practicality and realism that could easily see it worn straight off the catwalk. We took a closer look at the collection, documented for AnOther by Federico Ferrari.
Pleats were run and creases pressed through an assortment of different fabrications, from leathers and velvets to metallic knits, offering an understated yet sharp precision throughout.
Masculine and boxy floral suits were simultaneously androgynous and yet romantic, with loose trousers slouching into signature Gucci loafers and softening their impact.
Precisely-rendered embroidery embellished cuffs, collars, straps and bows, showing the careful attention devoted to even the most relaxed looks.
Purples and mauves were paired with red and alongside olive green and blue hues. The following day Miuccia Prada showed equally interesting colour combinations in her collection.