We speak to Phoebe English about her series of archive collages
Phoebe English has been spinning her haunted fairytale for nearly five years. We have watched the tender development of her darkly romantic, ethereal collections, which focus on hand-worked surfaces and constructed silhouettes, becoming easily recognisable by their raw edges, stark colour palette and resurrected craft techniques.
Back in September, English began releasing a monthly archive series as part of her newsletter, which offers a beautiful insight into her past collections, through intimate, hand-crafted collages which embody the darkly-delicate English spirit. “The idea behind the series is quite simple: to make something nice that I could email to people. Something that can be visual and enjoyable, rather than a corporate 'Buy Me' advert,” English explains. “It is almost a comprehensive step-by-step guidebook to different aspects of the label.” The series hones in on English traits and technical details, such as her debut smocking collection, made primarily from intricate hand-smocked, coiled-up calico. “It was quite a monastic experience of making actually,” she remembers. “Hours of almost penitent stitching. I remember how peculiar it was to be inside my first ever studio space.”
Through each newsletter, we see a memory of English, and also recognise how she has grown as a designer, whilst retaining and strengthening her signature characteristics, that she developed under Louise Wilson’s stern watch at Central Saint Martins. “Louise was very particular and excruciatingly specific about how we presented our work and each student developed a specific portfolio style. I developed this collage-style then and I learnt how to make them look good very quickly – my God you didn't show her pages that didn't look perfect.”
The Phoebe English web shop launches in December. To receive a monthly archive collage sign up to the Phoebe English newsletter here.
Words by Mhairi Graham
