Fashion & Beauty / Collections Digest

AnOther's Guide to Vunk

AnOther explains how to replicate VUNK, Donatella Versace’s modern take on punk, which pulls on the rebellious threads of the past and the glamour of the Versace label...

Versace A/W13
Versace A/W13 Photography by Alessandro Furchino Capria

The definition of punk: “A style or movement characterised by the adoption of aggressively unconventional and often bizarre or shocking clothing, hairstyles, makeup, etc., and the defiance of social norms of behavior, usually associated with punk rock musicians and fans.”

Born in the mid-seventies, punk was defined as an anti-establishment style; a bricolage of pins, badges, chains, army surplus and leather, which now tell a story of confrontational rebellion. The Sex Pistol’s cry of "Anarchy in the UK" was the anthem for the aggressive movement of bullet belts, studded vests, fishnets and leopard print.

Now 2013, step in – VUNK. Donatella Versace’s modern take on the unruly style, which pulls on the rebellious threads of the past and the glamour of the Versace label.

"VUNK pulls on the rebellious threads of the past and the glamour of the Versace label"

The most obvious difference between the two styles is that while Punk was adopted by the proletariat of the decade as an anti-establishment revolt, VUNK, backed by its Versace luxe and seductive allure, exists only in its most decadent form. Similarly, Donatella has thrown in some fine silk and cashmere for good measure, and a heady dose of Versace sex appeal.  Here AnOther explains how to replicate VUNK...

Fabric... Vinyl
While the punks wore customized leather, denim vests and bin liners, vunk uses fetishistic vinyl, re-crafted to create tailored jackets, trousers, mini skirts and bodysuits. Vinyl was still popular with the punks of the 70s, however it took more of a backseat against its leather counterparts. Donatella softened vinyl jeans with silk mesh, crepe and cashmere. Versace worked with American artists The Haas Brothers to reinterpret animal printed fur, with patterns placed on bright yellow coats, collars and skirts.

Colour palette... black and red
Both colours synonymous with Gothicism, fetishism and danger, red and black painted the Versace catwalk, with occasional bursts of yellow, stark white and deep purple.

Style... cutaway
While the punks may have slashed it, vunk seductively slices it, with exposed side-cuts, halter necklines and thigh-high slits. Geometric cuts were placed into shoulder blades and midriffs, while dresses cut close to the body toyed with corsetry and pleating.

Hair... sleek
No mohawks, tri-hawks or liberty spikes; VUNK is sophisticated in its grooming. Hairstylist Paolo Guido presented a slicked-back strong look that despite its androgyny, still maintained a provocative edge. Make-up was pale, with dark kohl eyes.

Accessory... spikes
Punk and vunk unite on this one – spikes, and lots of them. Boots, belts, necklines and jewellery appliqued in sharp metal hardwear. Models wore oversized metal harnesses, multi-chain necklaces and cuffs and chokers spiked with nails and rivets.

Text by Mhairi Graham