From Peter Do’s second runway collection for Helmut Lang, to Carly Mark’s farewell Puppets and Puppets show, here are the best shows from New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2024
Helmut Lang
New York Fashion Week kicked off with creative director Peter Do’s second runway collection for Helmut Lang titled Protection vs Projection. Known since 1986 for its minimalist, utilitarian design, Do has created a “system of dressing” off the back of the brand’s ethos. He describes this as a new way of thinking about making and wearing clothes through novel innovations and hyper-adaptable pieces based on everyday function. In the show, we saw this through 50 looks, which included a newly developed fabric of silk, as well as bubble wrap used to make bulletproof vests, bomber jackets, and pants. There were also wool cashmere sweaters, shiny nylon padded puffers, viscose hole-punch dresses, gowns made of hosiery, and suiting that took inspiration from construction tarps.
Willy Chavarria
Safe From Harm, the latest show by Willy Chavarria, was about love and protection – “a reminder of our instinctive human goodness to keep one another safe from harm.” A continuation of his emphasis on his Mexican-American heritage, and the beauty he finds in the streets and culture around him, the show featured black leather, open collars, houndstooth, tweed, tracksuits, and Allen Edmonds tassel loafers – making a nod to Chavarria’s own sensuality and confidence.
Proenza Schouler
Stripping away any trendiness, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough had a more inward, quiet approach to their Autumn/Winter 2024 show. There was no reinvention of the wheel here – instead, the pair opted for sharp tailoring and simplicity. With a focus on outwear, there was a fair share of wool coats and shearling parkas, along with long-sleeve sheer maxi dresses, leather pants, cowl neck tops, blazers, and cosy shawls. The garments could easily be compared to the original Helmut Lang, bringing forth the muted 90s minimalism that continues to be coveted and timeless.
Puppets and Puppets
Founded in 2018, Carly Mark of the iconic Puppets and Puppets brand shared her final collection this week, which will never be put into production. After 18 years based in New York, the young artist-turned-designer is relocating to London in the spring, where Puppets and Puppets will be headquartered as an accessories brand. The show was her way of saying goodbye to New York and ready-to-wear for now, with sheer dresses, biker shorts, fur jackets, lingerie fabrics, and lots of tights.
