The winter coat is an investment piece to be unpacked and de-mothballed every October – but loyal though you may be to the cut and colour of your favoured outer layer, styling tricks surrounding it change from year to year. In preparation for a cold snap, we looked to the 1990s’ unforgettable fashion campaigns for A/W17 inspiration. Whether a belted trench, a shiny silk jacket or fluffy overcoat , there’s something to cater for every need.
1. With nothing underneath, inspired by Kate Moss for Calvin Klein A/W94 (above)
90s-era Calvin Klein was renowned for its clean silhouettes, neutral colour palettes and ability to produce clothes that exude an all-American nonchalance for business and pleasure alike. Here, the brand takes the adage “less is more” more literally, with a fresh-faced Kate Moss swathed in a blanket coat and not much else besides. Like Moss, pair your oversized coat with a sensible lace-up shoe, for a look that’s both alluring and practical.
2. Metallic, inspired by Ehrinn Cummings for Gucci S/S98
It may not be the most insulating of materials, but a silk jacket or coat is unrivalled in its iridescence. Tom Ford’s streamlined iteration for Gucci S/S98 in a glacial metallic blue would carry over into the colder months; an ideal solution to throw over a fine-gauge poloneck and wool trouser for a seasonal cocktail event.
3. Lady-like, inspired by Audrey Marnay for Miu Miu A/W97
Reminiscent of a lady-like ladybird, the elfin Audrey Marnay wears her prim and proper polka dot coat with aplomb. Channellng the spirit of Audreys-past, Marnay could be mistaken for a 1990s reincarnation of Hepburn, complete with peter pan collar and Miu Miu mary janes.
4. Cybergoth, inspired by Karen Elson for Chanel A/W97
The leather trench coat is a wardrobe staple of cybergoths the world over, often worn to demonstrate a devotion to the style of Keanu Reeves in the 1999 sci-fi thriller The Matrix. Kym Barrett, the film’s costume director, must have considered Chanel A/W97 during the preliminary stages of design – as this patent belted trench pays tribute to all the sartorial tropes necessary for life in dystopia. Take a tip from Karen Elson and team yours with opaque tights and a smoky eye.
5. Dress like dessert, inspired by Nadja Auermann for Prada A/W92
Nadja Auermann wears double cream Prada like a luxurious layer of human tiramisu – and the downy fluff trimming her lapels ensures that, although lacking a jumper, she will remain cosy throughout the day. Auermann’s hair, piled atop her head in the shape of a cannoli, is offset by cappuccino-coloured lips; tempting though it may be to sip on a coffee while wearing this look, however, it is not reccomended. Dry cleaning can only do so much by way of stain removal.