An idyllic port city on the southern coast of France, boasting history, charm and culture, here are the best places to eat, drink, and swim in Marseille
Introducing a series of alternative city guides, specially curated for the cultivated traveller.
When someone asks you about France, what do you see? Many picture rolling boulevards in the country’s capital, lined with Parisian bakeries, art deco bistros and cosy book shops. After all, Paris is, to many, the cultural capital of the world. But Paris, while painstakingly beautiful, represents only a mere fraction of the country and its dynamic culture. Less than four hours away by train is Marseille, an idyllic port city on the coast of southern France, boasting flavour, history, charm and culture. From the ancient Greeks to contemporary craftsmen, Marseille has always been home to a diverse range of cultures and influences that have shaped its eccentric, authentic character.
Lined with stunning beaches, turquoise waters, independent boutiques and vibrant cuisines, this is what I see when I think of France. As does Louise Skadhauge, a Danish-French photographer who recently planted her roots in Marseille. After falling in love with the city and all it has to offer, together with Maison Luono, Skadhauge created A photobook of Marseille. The made-to-order book presents a visual guide and personal reflections, encouraging cultivated travellers from across the globe to explore French culture beyond the capital.
In an exclusive look into A photobook of Marseille, below, Louise Skadhaduge shares her guide to Marseille through the eyes of a local.
La Mercerie
9 Cr Saint-Louis, 13001 Marseille, France
As with its cultural landmarks and coast-side escapades, Marseille has established its position on the gourmet food map as a must-visit destination for food lovers. From traditional seafood dishes to contemporary fusions, each cobblestoned road seemingly leads the way to new restaurants on every corner. On a trip to the vibrant district of Noailles, a mere stone’s throw away from the old port, La Mercerie is a must-visit restaurant favoured by locals and tourists alike, including Skadhauge.
“I still remember the first time I visited La Mercerie,” says Skadhauge. “They served their evening menu – which rotates every month – together with thoughtful wine pairings. It was an amazing sensorial experience.” With a resident sommelier, the restaurant is renowned for biodynamic and natural wines. Be it drinks with friends, a dinner date or a family affair, at La Mercerie, you are bound to feel like a local.
Provisions
95 Rue de Lodi, 13006 Marseille, France
Nestled on the corner of a street in Baille lies one of Marseilles’ best kept secrets. Quintessentially French and upbeat with charm, Provisions is a female-founded bookshop-turned-épicerie owned by friends, Sasika and Jill. Situated in a former mid-century bookstore, the site’s original wooden fixtures and antique tiles elicit a warm sense of homeliness. On the shelves are speciality groceries from France including “carefully selected wines (both with and without alcohol), books, ceramics and local flowers”, explains Skadhauge. “The duo work with craftsmen and artisans whose philosophies they align with: everything is consciously produced, as local as possible and always delicious.”
Every week – on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays – Provisions cooks up a short menu of sweet and savoury goods. Using local produce from markets and selected items from their counter, the menu rotates every week, honouring seasonal produce and minimising waste. Recent dishes include vegetarian Flammekueche with crème fraîche, onions, shiitakes and oyster mushrooms, gnocchi with ragú and many a pastry for the sweet-toothed. The food comes in small batches and is cherished by locals.
Jimmy Granger, boat ride with lunch
While it’s true that Marseille’s stunning coastal views can be enjoyed on foot, there’s no better place to explore the water than by boat. According to Skadhauge, there’s a particular boating experience like no other, and it’s often kept secret and passed on by word of mouth. “One of my highlights includes going on a boat with visiting friends on Roxy, Jimmy Granger’s sailboat,” she says. “He usually sails his guests towards the Frioul Islands and/or la Côte Bleue.” This boating experience also includes food – it’s essentially a humble dinner party hosted on a boat with a private chef. “Apéro, lunch, swimming, breathtaking views and entertaining conversations are always on the menu.”
Sessùn Alma
127 Rue Sainte, 13007 Marseille, France
Sessùn is a well-known French fashion brand with its roots in Marseille. In an old soap-making factory on the famous rue Sainte, sits their beloved concept store, Sessùn Alma. This hybrid space – part boutique, part restaurant – is the beating heart of the Sessùn brand, and has become one of the most favoured shopping spots in the city. Designed by Marseille-based architectural firm Marion Bernard, the space uses mineral-inspired materials to evoke warmth and Mediterranean charm, with saffron-tinted floors, pearly white walls, tall ceilings and handmade trinkets by local artisans on built-in shelves. Before dining in the eatery, hosted by a rotating roster of resident chefs, browse garments by Sessùn and craft pieces by local artisans – tableware, pottery, baskets – and more.
Vanille Noire
15 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille, France
According to Skadhauge, at Vanille Noire – Marseille’s most coveted gelato parlours – “you will find the best ice cream and sorbet in the city.” The name is a direct translation and reference to their most popular flavour, black vanilla, a scoop of which tastes sweet, salty and undeniably moreish. Local favourites also include lavender gelato, pastis sorbet and orange-flower water ice cream with caramelised pistachios. Vegan options are also available using almond milk, such as praline and sesame.
Vanille Noire is dotted on the seaside promenade along the Vieux-Port and the winding streets of Le Panier. With its central location, Skadhauge recommends “enjoying two scoops on a stroll towards the Le Panier neighbourhood, or on the way to the Mucem museum.”
Calanque de Sormiou
Calanque de Sormiou, 13008 Marseille
While Marseille boasts many inner-city attractions, it’s also worth dedicating ample time to explore the surrounding landscapes and connect with nature. There are many expeditions worthy of a place on the itinerary, though Skadhauge recommends spending half a day at Calanque de Sormiou, a famous creek renowned for its breathtaking panorama of azure blue waters, limestone cliffs and ethereal greenery. “Prepare for a good hike when you come,” says Skadhauge. The location is easily accessible by public transport, followed by a one-hour walk to reach the Calanque. Upon arrival, stroll around the creek on a nature trail and unwind by the beach.
Mijoba
79 boulevard Vauban, 13006 Marseille, France
Tucked away on Boulevard Vauban at the foot of the ‘Notre Dame de la Garde’ is one of the city’s newest, most coveted restaurants. Having worked at Café des Epices and Péron, Venezuelan chef David Mijoba established Mijoba in 2023, and quickly garnered a reputation for its vegetable and seafood-forward menu, compromising vibrant flavours and unexpected combinations. “The chef and owner honours the produce he works with, and therefore knits close partnerships with local farmers,” Skadhauge explains. Past dishes include ricotta ravioli, lentils, and fresh chestnuts, as well as local mackerel served with grilled with leeks and asparagus, drizzled in a za’atar vinaigrette.
Anse de Maldormé
Anse de Maldorme, 13007 Marseille, France
Anse de Maldormé is an idyllic spot for watching the sunrise on a summer’s morning. “This is a favourite spot of mine, only 40 minutes walk from Le vieux port,” says Skadhauge. “Sit close to the water, jump in for a swim, or just watch the mountains and blue sea from a wild cliff.”
The charming pebble beach is nestled on the peninsula of Malmousque, a short journey from central Marseille. Neighbouring the trendy Hotel du Little Nice and restaurant Le Petit Nice at the foot of Ursa Minor Villa, many residents frequent the area in the summer, so it’s recommended to arrive early to find a place in the sun. Despite the surrounding establishments, Maldrormé feels secluded, akin to a private beach cove on an island retreat.
Frioul Archipelago, stroll & swim with a boat trip to reach the islands
Frioul archipelago, 13007 Marseille, France
For a longer excursion, Skadhauge recommends a day trip to the nearby Frioul archipelago, a 15 minute city boat from Le vieux port. “The islands are raw, photogenic and are an amazing location for a stroll and a swim,” she says. Near the port, the Saint-Estève and Morgiret coves are a favoured location for long days on the beach. Slightly further afield is The Calanque de la Crine, often described as the most beautiful cove of the Frioul archipelago enveloped by crystalline waters.
Notre-Dame de la Garde
Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13006 Marseille, France
Notre Dame de la Garde is one of the most iconic locations in Marseille, with its Roman-Byzntine architecture featuring domes, stones, polychromy, golds and mosaics. Adding to its allure, the site also exists as one of the tallest points in the city, offering panoramic views of Marseille. Skadhauge recommends exploring the surrounding area – usually free from tourists – before slowly meandering upwards to the top of the Basilica. “Once you reach the top, there is an amazing spot to watch the sunset over the Frioul Islands and the sea,” she says. “It’s quite luxurious to have such a scenic view in the middle of the city.”
A photobook of Marseille by Louise Skadhaduge is published by Maison Luono and is available to pre-order now until April 15. Copies are delivered in June.
