We've got our minds on Margiela as a sultry Kate Moss, backstage at the S/S93 collection, wins the Most Loves vote
An anti-conformist, anti-establishment attitude and DIY stance defined the punk movement, and with it came a natural rejection of high fashion. Nevertheless the subculture has had an immeasurable impact on the world it so forcefully rejected. From Givenchy’s signature glamour-punk creations to Gaultier’s Punk Cancan S/S11 collection and Versace’s leather-heavy A/W13 Vunk catwalk, punk's confrontational and anti-convention attitude remains a key reference point and source of inspiration for designers. But it was this carefully considered yet apparently makeshift look from Maison Martin Margiela's S/S93 collection – sported by a sexy, tousled-haired Kate Moss – that has stolen our hearts this week, winning the Loves vote for writer and AnOther contributor Siska Lyssens.
A DIY ethic has always been integral to Margiela's practice – the fashion house frequently uses second-hand clothing and disposable materials to produce seemingly tattered and worn designs, with a unique threadbare appearance. Margiela’s entire S/S93 presentation was an unforgettable punk moment on the catwalk. The collection included two different lines, one presenting all-white, ghostly garments and one of entirely black looks. Typical of Margiela's unconventional approach, the two collections were shown in separate locations, with guests invited to only one of the shows.
By exploring the deconstruction of couture fabrication during his debut as the Creative Director of Margiela, John Galliano reintepreted the house codes in what is set to be one of 2015's defining fashion moments. As anticipation gathers around the debut of his ready-to-wear collection for Margiela, we catch up with Lyssens to talks Margiela highlights and punk icons.
How would you wear this look if you owned it?
I think it would look great pulled up. I’d throw an oversized black leather Acne jacket over it, or Shrimps’ grey Agnes bomber for a softer look.
If you had a couple of metres of knit fabric, what would you make out of it?
A cosy spread to throw on the sofa.
Who's your favourite punk icon and why?
Patti Smith. I love her strength of character and how she is still unapologetically herself. I recently saw a video where she talks about the song she penned for Darren Aronofsky’s film Noah, and was entirely fascinated by her all over again.
At the moment, fashion is revisiting plenty of vintage trends – what are you most glad has made a comeback?
I like how colourful trainers have made a comeback. Very Mel C!
What is your favourite Margiela collection and why?
It’s hard to pick one, but the pieces from the Maison’s S/S08 Artisanal collection are just amazing in their craftsmanship. The structured white jacket made of elastic bands is really impressive up close.
What was the last piece of clothing you bought?
A grey scarf.
What did you think of Galliano's debut collection at the house's Spring Couture show?
I think that Galliano is in a difficult position where anything he does will be criticized to some extent. I liked how you could clearly recognise the Margiela house codes and Galliano’s exuberant touch, in equal parts, in his debut collection.
