We pick five our favourite moments when dance met fashion
Dance and fashion have long been intertwined, since the first Sultana skirt by Paul Poiret was modelled by the Ballets Russes, to the recent S/S15 shows, where Gareth Pugh collaborated with choreographer Wayne McGregor for a dramatic, emotive finale to his presentation. Christian Dior’s 1947 New Look was inspired by the light ballerina skirts of the time, while Coco Chanel, Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier and Rei Kawakubo have all worked within the realm of dance. “It is one of the dreams of a designer to design costumes for a ballet,” says Riccardo Tisci, who created the mythical, skeletal costumes for Boléro in 2013. The burgeoning relationship between fashion and dance is documented in a new book by Valerie Steele, which traces the crossover of both arts back to the early twentieth century. Here, we pick five of our favourite collaborative moments between fashion and dance.
Jean Paul Gaultier and Régine Chopinot, 1980s-90s
From 1983 to 1993, Jean Paul Gaultier designed the costumes for all dance performances choreographed by Régine Chopinot, including Les Rats (1984), Le Défilé (1985) and Façade: un divertissement (1993). His avant garde costumes deconstructed the traditional tutu and incorporated many signature Gaultier trademarks: underwear-as-outerwear, conical bras, androgyny, sailor tops, adding a dash of rebellion and flamboyant showmanship.
Paul Poiret and The Ballets Russes, 1910s
Although he did not create the original costumes, Paul Poiret was directly influenced by the Ballets Russes’ Orientalist style. In a society previously constrained by corsetry and lace, Poiret’s sultana skirts, harem pants and vibrant turbans offered a fresh aesthetic, now definitive of the era. Theorist Peter Wollen comments, “The Russian Ballet launched the new Orientalism, Poiret popularised it.”
Martha Graham and Halston, 1970s
Referred to as the "Picasso of Dance", Martha Graham was one of the most influential dancers of the twentieth century. Costumes were central to her work and she frequently blurred the line between dance and fashion, collaborating with designers including Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Halston, the latter who she counted as a close friend. Halston had a discernable influence on her costuming, while ballet inspired swinging skirts and bodysuits cropped up throughout his collections in the late '70s, a style that has become synonymous with the decade's style.
Rick Owens and Team Vision, 2013
A year on, Rick Owens' S/S14 show still remains a talking point within the industry. His innovative and theatrical presentation featured American hip-hop dance troupe Team Vision, who put on a full-throttle step routine. It set the fashion industry alight, as they transformed the catwalk into an aggressive, gripping performance, wearing Owens’ monochromatic leather and sportswear tunics.
Dance and Fashion by Valerie Steele is out now, published by Yale Press.
Words by Mhairi Graham
Christian Louboutin for The National Ballet, 2011
In 2011, Christian Louboutin created his most deadly shoe: an 8-inch heel designed with dance in mind. The killer heel was inspired by the pointe shoe and was created to raise money for the English National Ballet. He said at the time, “Isn’t the classical dancing ballet slipper the ultimate heel?” Louboutin referenced The Ballerina Ultima shoe again earlier this year to launch his beauté range, in a film collaboration with David Lynch.
