NYFW S/S15: The Hoodies

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Proenza Schouler S/S15
Proenza Schouler S/S15Photography by Aaron Laserna

The hoodie cult is back, with a little help from New York Fashion Week

Something unexpected happened in New York this week. Amidst the polished elegance and sleek sophistication, a surprising contender has come through as the unlikely hero of fashion week. Make way for the athletic hoodie, in all its nineties-throwback, pristine sportswear glory.

"The hoodie has been given a second chance, and it comes in peace"

Last seen on the backs of Ice-T and Jamiroquai circa ‘94 or on the streets of 8 Mile, the retro-rave favourite has been up-scaled for S/S15. Marc by Marc Jacobs presented a British rave-inspired collection of hooded boiler suits and hi-tech parka jackets, while Proenza Schouler’s come laser-cut. Rag & Bone’s cluster of ethereal angels was toughened up by toggles and hoods, while Lacoste pulled on its archive past for regatta-whites. A long-time favourite of Rick Owens, is this the latest direction for the sports-luxe trend?

The athletic hood has weathered a tough media storm, first synonymous with the thug-drug uniform of the 90s, before falling into favour with fashion’s futuristic Millennium-inspired space odyssey. However with a little help from New York fashion week, it has been given a second chance, and it comes in peace. With a gentle nod to its medieval roots, it is moment of otherworldly calm amidst the madness.

Text by Mhairi Graham