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Women's Fashion / Incoming

Jacquemus S/S14

In Fashion Incoming, Nobuko Tannawa styles the collections of the cream of recent fashion graduates and young designers, and asks them about their visions for the future

Jacquemus S/S14
Jacquemus S/S14 Photography by Spela Kasal

Nobuko Tannawa meets Simon Porte, designer of French label Jacquemus, to discuss spontaneity, tennis and the south of France

Even before seeing the Jacquemus collection in person or asking the designer Simon Porte the questions, I knew I wanted to do this shoot on location, somewhere I am not familiar with. I think this explains the designer's wish to be spontaneous and for us to interpret it freely.

What was the inspiration for the S/S14 collection?
The story for this collection is about a young girl who goes to south of France for a vacation in La Grande-Motte. She falls in love, eats ice cream and plays tennis.

Why is it particularly south of France?
For me the south of France means to be in front of the sea. Freedom.

How did La Grande-Motte reflect in your design?
La Grande-Motte is a strong minimal architectural city built in the end of the 60s. It's a very futuristic place designed by Jean Balladure, and recently it has become a working class place where thousands of people flock for the summer.

Do you have a certain type of woman in mind when designing?
She is happy, ultra simple and naïve.

"The Jacquemus is happy, ultra simple and naïve" — Simon Porte

Is she someone you want to become friends with?
Yes, don't you?

The character of the girl always comes first?
The character of the girl and what she is about to do, always comes first.

What is the ideal way for your creations to be worn?
There is no ideal way, I never give my opinion about people's looks or style. With Jacquemus I am telling a story, people are free to play around with it.

Jacquemus S/S14
Jacquemus S/S14 Photography by Spela Kasal
Anyone you look up to?
I'm inspired a lot by music, Serge Gainsbourg and 80s Pop music from Lio to Jacno. It's their French attitude.

Which fashion designers ydo you admire?
Rei Kawakubo, for her strong and ultra smart vision.

Paris is not an easy place for young designers to be recognised, what do you think made you and your design stand out in this city?
Spontaneity.

Could you describe spontaneous in three words?
No, it would no longer be spontaneous.

Is there anything you hope for in the future of Paris Fashion Week?
More fun, more smiles.

How can people achieve that?
It's a good question, we can't force people to smile right?

Do you have any plans, goals or dream as a designer?
The next collection is my only plan.

Photography: Spela Kasal
Styling & text: Nobuko Tannawa
Hair stylist: Tomoko Ohama @ Calliste using L’Oréal

Make-up: Tiina Roivainen @ Airport Agency using Dior
Photo assistant: Laurent Chouard
Model: Maria Loks @ Next
All clothes by Jacquemus S/S14
Shoes by Spring Court
Socks by Falke

Nobuko Tannawa is a freelance fashion stylist based in London

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