Collections Digest | AnOther's Menswear A/W13 Highlights
— January 28, 2013 —
Unique documentation of men's and women's fashion collections
Rick Owens A/W13 Photography by Marie-Amelie Tondu In the aftermath of the autumn/winter 2013 menswear collections in London, Milan and Paris, the AnOther team share their personal highlights alongside our favourite catwalk and backstage moments courtesy of AnOther's photographers.
Alister Mackie, creative director of Another Man
"The highlight for me was working on Louis Vuitton, largely because of all the incredible fabric development that had gone into the collection. The result was an extravagant array of materials, including mink lasered to look like snow leopard, knitwear woven from Himalayan yaks and needle punched chinchilla, alongside traditional jacquard covered in eccentric animals conjured from the brains of the Chapman brothers. The accessories were extraordinary too, with belt buckles and cufflinks fashioned out of stone taken from the summit of Everest, and pearls – engraved to look like eyeballs – turned into dress pins. Really spectacular.
This season was also special for me as I was able to watch a few shows, including Maison Martin Margiela, a really beautiful experience, especially as the cast included a number of friends of mine, and Lanvin, a show which really inspired me with all the new ideas running through it. It was my first time seeing Comme des Garçons in a long time and it was a great show – the venue was a green screen studio. I loved seeing the clothes up close. And it was really exciting to see Hedi back on the menswear calendar at Saint Laurent – great show, great collection, great music. The ermine coat was up there alongside our Snow Leopard Coat at Louis Vuitton as my favourite garments of this season."
"It was really exciting to see Hedi back on the menswear calendar at Saint Laurent – great show, great collection, great music" — Alister Mackie
Bryan McMahon, senior fashion editor of Another Man
"One of the highlights from the collections was Louis Vuitton's collaboration with Jake and Dinos Chapman on prints – with woven fabrics on suits, smoking jackets and bags, it all looked amazing. I also really liked the story of the Topman Design show – the idea of travel and exploration felt really fresh. At Alexander McQueen, the set and sense of atmosphere along with the hair made for a really strong comeback – especially showing in London. It felt really right. Dior had a really great set and the use of colour in the collection was very interesting and bold. Dries Van Noten used paisley really well to convey the idea of 'the morning after' – waking up and throwing on your girlfriend's clothes. And finally, the hair at Rick Owens was mega!"
"The hair at Rick Owens was mega!" — Bryan McMahon
Ben Cobb, editor of Another Man
"My highlights were the big collars, flared trousers and tank-tops at Raf Simons. The 70s through the genius filter of Raf Simons. Prada was low-key, tasteful and very English: a dreamy world of domestic bliss. I loved the hard hippy heaven at Dries Van Noten created from paisley pyjamas and leather trousers. At Maison Martin Margiela the standout piece was an amazing patchwork fur cape, and the Saint Laurent show ended Paris with a big grunge bang. And one long shopping list!"
"Prada was low-key, tasteful and very English: a dreamy world of domestic bliss" — Ben Cobb
Joel Bough, fashion editor of Another Man
"I mainly loved the moments that had a certain sense of humour. I especially liked the aesthetic at Martine Rose, I'd wear most of, it especially the wide leg trousers. Retro but current; funny, but serious. For the same reason I loved the knitwear at Chris Shannon, which reminded me of Saturday morning TV. I also liked what Shaun Samson did with the serenity prayer. I think spirituality in fashion is going to have a big moment sometime very soon and it took an American to think outside the box at the London collections."
"I think spirituality in fashion is going to have a big moment sometime very soon and it took an American to think outside the box at the London collections" — Joel Bough
Laura Bradley, commissioning editor of anothermag.com
"I loved the bunny ears at Comme des Garçons and the use of lilac and green for menswear was really appealing. Hair was impressive across the board – waves at Alexander Mcqueen and slick side partings at Dior and Raf Simons. I also enjoyed the striking use of colour at Hermès and Wooyoungmi. And of course, Vivienne Westwood arriving for her London show on her beloved bicycle.