Following on from London’s Savile Row tailoring and Dandy-Fitzgerald referencing, menswear at Milan A/W13 took a fanciful tack, featuring fur-trimmed coats and distorted proportions; slogan t-shirts and animal patterns amidst crisp tuxedos, cavalry trousers and the slicked-shingle haircut first debuted at London's Alexander McQueen show last week.
Gucci’s powder blue frockcoats, service jackets and double-breasted peacoats told a regimental tale undercut by playful twists of mohair, leather and bold check, which proved to be a notable pattern-trend across the board. Vivienne Westwood’s typography T-shirts nestled underneath dogtooth suiting and checkered knitwear, while bold squares and enlarged criss-cross patterns were found among Jil Sander’s military references, alongside ponyskin suiting, detachable collars and pinstripe.
"Gucci’s powder blue frockcoats, service jackets and double-breasted peacoats told a regimental tale undercut by playful twists of mohair, leather and bold check..."
Neil Barrett’s Bauhaus-inspired collection also featured a loud criss-cross, alongside signature fur panels, tapered trousers and an acutely tailored take on sportswear. The disciplined designer expelled shirt collars from his collection, replacing them with fencing vests and waistcoats. The Burberry ‘I heart classics’ range pulled from the archives to replenish traditional silhouettes. Conventionality was disembodied by tiger lapels, latex and heart motifs, which were scattered amongst the brand’s progeny of iconic trench coats and crew neck knits.
However Muiccia Prada turned this whimsical world on its head with her meticulous take on simplicity: wardrobe staples in bold blue, red and soft 60’s hues, presented against vignettes and art-deco foam furniture. However there was still a touch of Miuccia eccentricity, in the ruffles running down the front of a gingham shirt, the printed handkerchief slipped down the neck of a merino wool jumper or the oversized stacked brogue loafer.
Text by Mhairi Graham