A gladiator, a boxer, a slick haired metrosexual, a go-go dancer – this season’s Versace show toyed with all the stereotypes of Italian manhood, laquered them in shimmer, and threw them in all their ebullient glory down the catwalk to the thumping
A gladiator, a boxer, a slick haired metrosexual, a go-go dancer – this season’s Versace menswear show toyed with all the stereotypes of Italian manhood, smothered them in shimmer, and threw them in all their ebullient glory down the catwalk to the thumping refrain of Queen’s “We Will Rock You.” Yet, for all its brazen gaudiness, this was a collection bubbling with masculinity, camp and, vitally, history, expressing both the heritage of Italy itself and that of the Versace family. These elements are clearly visible in this image, taken backstage by AnOther photographer Barbara Anastacio.
Take first the boxing belt, representative of gladiatorial power in the ring. The tradition of handing out ornate belts as awards for sporting prowess dates back to the late nineteenth century, when the city of Boston honoured bare knuckle boxing champion John “The Boston Bully” Sullivan with a gold-plated version, encrusted with 350 diamonds, as recognition for his achievements. And still to this day belts are awarded to the victors of boxing matches, with the tradition spreading to professional wrestling, martial arts, motor sports and golf. As a sartorial statement, it exudes power, virility and masculinity as well as sporting excellence.
"For all its brazen gaudiness, this was a collection bubbling with masculinity, camp and, vitally, history, expressing both the heritage of Italy itself and that of the Versace family."
So, paired with this, the densely embroidered gauze trousers – transparent and extraordinarily camp – and the golden medallion, symbolic of the "Italian stallion" pastiched in film and fiction. Yet these elements are more nuanced than they first appear. From the classic Greek key pattern that ran throughout the collection, to the iconic Medusa logo on the medallion, this is a look that is redolent with references to Gianni, Versace's founder. Growing up in Southern Italy, Gianni had a fascination with classical art and architecture that was represented in every collection he designed, and is best expressed in his selection of the company logo legendary Greek monster Medusa. As a beautiful young woman, Medusa infuriated the gods who cursed her by transforming her hair into a halo of venomous snakes and decreeing that every person she looked upon would turn to stone. In his choice of figurehead, Versace not only aligned himself with a sense of ancient history and heritage, but also with a figure of miraculous powers and strength. In this collection, and in this key outfit from the show, Donatella is both paying homage to her brother's love of ancient art and legend, and celebrating the qualities of supreme masculinity, high camp and Italian heritage that are present in all the best Versace collections.
Text by Tish Wrigley
