Inspired by the work of three BA graduates from The Swedish School of Textiles, Nobuko Tannawa's latest Incoming feature plays homage to Japanese fashion. Alongside photographs of their work, the designers Linnéa Woxinger Skold, Maline Nordin and Stina Eklund talk about the ideas behind their collections...
Your theme for the collection?... At the start, the possibilities felt endless. I decided to speak with a Medium, inspired by Sophie Calle’s work Où et quand Bercq? It was challenging but also very interesting. The Medium said I had to get to know my father and his side of the family. I travelled to his house in Värmland and discovered my grandfather’s shoemaker workshop in the backyard. This workshop, a complete time capsule, became everything for this collection. I made over 25 sketches of puppets and translated these into women's clothing. The accessories were made in the workshop with the help of my father.
Your current projects?... I’m doing the masters program at the Swedish School of Textiles, where I’m investigating puppetry and characters in clothing.
Your designer inspirations?... I admire genre-crossing designers. Jun Takahashi of Undercover makes dolls and I can relate to that. I also love the multi-talented creatives.
"The possibilities for the collection felt endless – I decided to speak with a Medium, inspired by Sophie Calle’s work Où et quand Bercq?"
Linnéa Woxinger Skold
Your design process?... I wanted to focus on the emotional aspect of fashion, which led to the theme of the collection: Life Forms. I focused on the tactile and unpredictable qualities of animals and investigated different textile techniques and draping to create materials and shapes that gave me similar associations. I would describe my design process as a constant search for unexpected beauty. It was important to always keep up the feeling of curiosity and playfulness to be able to give the collection its positive expression.
Your future plans?... I’ve been looking for a job as well as taking some time off to reflect on the past three years. It's both an exciting and scary time. I've also been playing around with creative ideas I've had in my head for a while.
Your dream as a designer?... To create a context, together with others, where the limits of fashion can be discussed and pushed forward. I also want to find ways of working with fashion as a positive force in everyday life and in the world. In the future, I hope to inspire others.
Your intentions for the collection?... I wanted to examine the space between the body and the garment. I emphasised particular parts to make them stand out from the body. My method has been to construct volume in the garment by using supporting materials. This resulted in a collection of garments that both highlight and obscure the lines of the body.
Your current projects?... I work as a design assistant in the denim department at the Swedish brand Gina Tricot. I also have my own label within where make accessories, mainly jewellery made of silicone and wood.
Your reflections on the collection?... It was a brilliant experience and worth all of the hard work.
Photography: Lowe H Seger
Styling and Interviews: Nobuko Tannawa
Hair: Yumi Nakada
Make-up: Alex Babsky @ Frank using Dior S/S12
Model: Zhulin @ IMG
Photography assistant: Matthew Lawes