Menswear First Look | Behind the Scenes at Louis Vuitton A/W12
— January 24, 2012 —
Highlights from the menswear shows
Louis Vuitton A/W12 Photography by Brett Lloyd, Courtesy of Louis VuittonFor his second season at the French powerhouse, Kim Jones put on an outstanding follow up show for Louis Vuitton’s autumn/winter 2012 collection presentation in Paris last week. Taking influence from travel – also at the heart of Vuitton’s heritage – Jones brought together references from Paris and Tokyo in what he called “a tale of two cities”, citing the work of 70s and 80s US fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez – who combined both cultures in his work – as a main inspiration.
Held in the monumental greenhouse pavilion of Parc André Citroën under a giant silver globe, the 41-strong collection offered a range of pieces that combined luxury with eclecticism – a trench with crocodile patches, a camel coat with kangaroo fur collar, a crocodile leather blouson with shearling collar. Styled by Another Man’s creative director Alister Mackie, this season’s overarching tailored gentleman theme was present throughout with an incredible attention to detail employed in every look.
Here we take a look behind the scenes of the Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2012 show and speak to stylist Mackie, his assistant Ellie Cummings, casting director Shelley Durkan and official photographer Brett Lloyd – who also provides us with a backstage portrait of the show.
Louis Vuitton stylist Alister Mackie:
"Working on the collection with Kim and the team it became apparent it was a tale of two cities; a conversation between Paris and Tokyo. This was worked through the fabrics we chose and the way we combined them – which is why we mixed tradtional Japanese kimono shirts under the sleek Parisien suits and coats. The show began in Paris with a very luxurious outlook on day dressing and gradually became more hi-tech and urban as we arrived in Tokyo where the evening wear was constructed from hand woven kimono fabrics. Throughout the show we dressed the models as characters who were part of the illustrated lifestyle of Antonio Lopez's lifestyle. The accesories were what gave it that edge and wit, with the signposted belt buckles and the arrow earrings bringing a bit of street style to the formal clothes."
"Working on the collection with Kim and the team it became apparent it was a tale of two cities; a conversation between Paris and Tokyo."
Louis Vuitton casting director Shelley Durkan:
"This season was an homage to Antonio Lopez, the aim with the casting direction was to bring to life the heroic, sculpted males seen in some of Lopez’s illustrations. We also looked for models that would channel the keynote influence of Paris and Japan within the collection."
Louis Vuitton official photographer Brett Lloyd:
"I had been working with the team for the past week up to the show, so the excitement on the day was intense. We had been listening to the Giorgio Moroder soundtrack every night during fittings so to hear it finally in the venue with Giorgio himself playing it was special."
Alister Mackie's assistant Ellie Cummings:
"For me the show was beautiful – it was an incredible follow-up collection from the spring/summer 2012 show Kim and Alister had worked on. Overall this collection felt like it had taken elements from the past season, whilst at the same time moving them forward to create a new luxury journey."
Text by Lucia Davies