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Art & Culture / The Hunger

Copenhagen: Fiskebar and Dyrehaven

In this column, Ananda Pellerin and Neil Wissink uncover the secret pleasures of the gastronome

Fiskebaren liquorice strawberries
Fiskebaren liquorice strawberries Photography by Neil Wissink

Vesterbro has been pulling itself up by its bootstraps over the past few years to become the food and drink destination of choice for city residents...

Vesterbro has been pulling itself up by its bootstraps over the past few years to become the food and drink destination of choice for city residents. One of the area's defining features is the old meatpacking district situated next to the harbour, with its long, low buildings that are a testament to the area's industrial past. Still fairly rough around the edges, brown brick factories are now the home to a host of new restaurants and bars, including the fresh fish restaurant Fiskebar. Located in one of these old buildings, the space has been renovated to a contemporary finish, while also keeping aesthetic remnants of its meat processing past. The two separate kitchens – one for raw dishes and one for cooked – have made Fiskebar one of the most talked about fish restaurants in the city, while the imposing bar itself is also a draw, with locals arriving late into the night to enjoy cocktails and our favourite Danish champagne, Skum. The raw bar is a must-do Copenhagen experience, with beautifully-dressed plates and special catches, such as the moonfish we were lucky to sample, as the last time it visited local waters was nearly twenty years ago.

In another area of Vesterbro which feels decidedly more residential, you'll find local bar and restaurant Dyrehaven. Relaxed, familial and offering Danish classics such as smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches) and sausages, this is an ideal place to enjoy a simple lunch in a wonderfully ramshackle environment. In the evening, Dyrehaven transforms into one of the district's most popular bars.

Text by Ananda Pellerin

Ananda and Neil visited Fiskebar on Saturday August 27 at 8pm, and Dyrehaven on Tuesday August 30 at 2pm. To see the other articles in The Hunger's culinary tour of Copenhagen see here.

Ananda Pellerin is a London-based writer and Neil Wissink is a visual artist also based in London. More from The Hunger here, and contact The Hunger here.

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