Inspiration Dior

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Dovima With Elephants, 1965, Richard Avedon
Dovima With Elephants, 1965, Richard Avedon

An exhibition dedicated to Christian Dior, the French designer who after the fabric rationing of the second world war, turned to extravagance, opting for billowing, floor sweeping skirts, over prim, knee length ones and highlighting his wearers

Who? An exhibition dedicated to Christian Dior, the French designer who after the fabric rationing of the second world war, turned to extravagance, opting for billowing, floor sweeping skirts, over prim, knee length ones and highlighting his wearers curves rather than concealing them. Dior’s first couture collection in 1947 was given the name ‘New Look’ for its obvious departure from the current fashions of the era and despite initial criticism for its opulence (Dior himself declared he had designed ‘flower women’) he helped to restore Paris’ reputation as the heart of the fashion world.

What? Featuring 120 couture dresses, the exhibition focuses on what inspired Dior to design and includes 60 pieces of art work, including recent Dior acquisitions such as Richard Avedon's acclaimed Dovima with Elephants and the famous Dior dress (designed by the founder himself) with the taut waist, cascading ivy and flowing red ribbons. One of the first designers to turn a couture house into a global brand, the exhibition also showcases the history behind the jewellery, leather goods and perfumes which have contributed to the company's success, with an exhibit exploring the sensory world of the latter.

Why? Drawing from a wide range of influences, including history, nature, paintings, sculptures, drawings, photography and film, Inspiration Dior is designed to take the visitor on a journey, illustrating how Dior’s exquisite creations often evolved from a simple and unrelated idea such as an era –the Belle Epoque - or an historical figure - Marie Antoinette. Art was one of Dior’s main inspirations and his finished pieces suggest borrowed elements from Picasso, Modigliani, Renoir, Matisse and Cezanne. “Everything that has been part of my life – whether I wanted it to or not – has expressed itself in my dresses”. These words of Dior sum up the central theme of this exhibition, which affords a fascinating insight into the mind of a great designer.

Inspiration Dior at the Pushkin Museum, Moscow runs from 28 April until 24 August.

Text by Fiona Cook