Five weeks, four cities and nearly 700 (!) shows and presentations later, the merry-go-round of the international spring/summer womenswear fashion weeks has finally drawn to a close. Having had a few days to digest the shows, AnOther invited its
Five weeks, four cities and nearly 700 (!) shows and presentations later, the merry-go-round of the international spring/summer womenswear fashion weeks has finally drawn to a close. Having had a few days to digest the shows, AnOther invited its contributors to share their personal highlights...
Editor Nancy Waters on Louis Vuitton's carousel...
"An email had gone around the night before that the show would be starting five minutes early, so the atmosphere at the Cour Carrée du Louvre was already electric with the mad buzz of everyone dashing to get to their seats. When the curtain went up to reveal a fairytale carousel with the models serenely perched on white ponies staring into the crowds, the applause erupted and as it started to slowly spin to the sound of tinkling bells we were just looking at each other in awe. I don’t think I’ve had tears in my eyes at a fashion show before but it was utter spine-tingling magic."
Senior Contributing Editor Tim Blanks on goth and the drowned world in Paris...
"In Paris, I had an attack of adult-onset Goth – loved Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, Ann Demeulemeester. And I was mesmerised by the "drowned world" theme at Armani, Givenchy, Chanel and McQueen (Charlotte Olympia's shoes too). When did everyone get that memo?"
Editor in Chief Jefferson Hack on Miu Miu and Marios Schwab...
"The Miu Miu collection had an elegance and coolness about it. There was a fabulous proportion to the jackets, incredible colours – purples, maroons – and wonderful prints that look slightly wrong together. Marios Schwab used beautiful, optical games in his collection, playing with layering and hidden motifs. There was a real elegance and sophistication in the look of the clothing that was strong and memorable."
Commissioning Editor Laura Bradley on Raf's meticulous work at Jil Sander...
"The shirt is clearly very important to Raf Simons and always plays a key role in both his women's and men's collections. I love the way it became one of the central themes for his Jil Sander S/S collection. It's always exciting to see a designer reworking and explore the possibilities on one idea – think about Junya Watanabe's series of leather jackets for A/W11. It was incredibly satisfying to see Raf's meticulous work on a simple white poplin short, playing with silhouette, proportion and detail, adding subtle layers, bow-ties, collars and cuffs."
Fashion Editor Agata Belcen on Comme des Garçons...
"It was a beautiful, touching collection; an original expression on human experience. I've never meditated, but the show was what I imagine meditation to be like - when you feel many thoughts wash over and move you."
Contributing Fashion Editor Robbie Spencer on Alexander McQueen...
"Alexander McQueen always has an incomparable focus on technique and craftsmanship. This season, Sarah Burton created otherworldly, serpent-like sea creatures: softened, feminine shell-like curves and ruffles; dresses that looked like they were made of sea weed and pink coral; actual shells and coral; incredible lace and shell masks created by Guido. These were combined with other, more sinister looks – made of glossy, black, leather bondage – that looked like they had been dragged out from the deep. By the end of a month of fashion weeks you start to forget all the shows you see, many things seems to roll in to one monotonous drone, but we all left this show feeling inspired and excited about the new season. It was without doubt my favourite collection of the season."
Senior Fashion Editor Sofia de Romarate on CHristopher Kane...
"Beautiful clothes with a glistening optimism set to the hauntingly melancholy voice of Lana Del ray singing video games – perfection."
Fashion Features Director Susannah Frankel on Rei Kawakubo and Phoebe Philo...
"I was blown away by the Comme des Garçons "white drama" collection. I love the idea of the designer who made black the colour to wear so many years ago now doing all white and trying to express life's happiness and sadness through that colour. There are very few people who would ever attempt something so ambitious let alone achieve it. I loved Céline also – the idea of building a wardrobe over and above being ephemeral and doing it so beautifully. Rei Kawakubo and Phoebe Philo have such different aesthetics but they're both passionately private strong women who wish their work to speak for itself which, without wishing to pigeonhole them in any way, is great too."
Contributing Writer Dean Mayo Davies on the new nautical...
"Nautical is a reference that pops up every few years but for S/S12, designers have become more pensive. This season is about the mystery and majesty of the sea not necking cocktails on a boat. Sarah Burton, for me, has produced the standout collection of the season, adding gravitas once more to the argument that fashion, the most human of arts, can be as powerful as anything you'll see in a gallery. Her sea odyssey took in not only the shimmering pearlescence of water, but the pollution and trauma that blights and scars it, debris and oil spillage. Burton's was a peerlessly crafted, beautiful, collection that didn't take an easy, or pasteurised route. Brilliant."
Contributing Fashion Editor Katie Shillingford on the blunt hair at Céline...
"The poker straight, blunt hair cut emphasised the strict, clean uniformity at Céline. It was an army of perfectly polished women empowered by Phoebe Philo's sharp, modern silhouette. As soon as I left I wanted to chop off the end of my ponytail!"
Contributing Fashion Editor Karen Langley on Maison Martin Margiela...
"Just like any great Margiela collection what makes it so special is the simplicity of the idea that is then turned into something extraordinary."
Contributing Writer Kin Woo on Courtney Love, cars and cool sportswear...
For sheer exuberance, you can’t beat a troupe of faux Courtney Loves whooping it up at Meadham Kirchhoff – their comment on the "artificial makings of girlishness." Other personal favourites were J.W. Anderson’s standout womenswear collection which merged craft with the street, Prada’s twisted take on women and cars, Sarah Burton’s light and super-romantic McQueen show and Stella McCartney’s cool sportswear with little Rococo flourishes.
Cecilia Bonstrom, Zadig & Voltaire Creative Director on the energy of Paris...
"Being Swedish I can say that Paris has always been the capital of fashion. My favourite thing here is the energy – it's like a party feeling and it makes the beginning of autumn much easier."
Contributing Writer Lucia Davies on the various interpretations of the underwater theme...
I found the recurring underwater theme most captivating. Obviously the giant white shell and reef set design at Chanel was standout, as were the aquatic references throughout – particularly the iridescent modern fabrics and unique placement of pearls down models’ spines and ears. Versace’s pastel starfish and shell prints and gold studded seahorse motifs were a fresh and striking welcome to the brand. Peter Pilotto’s surreal and vivid undersea prints were interestingly juxtaposed with chunky scuba zips across sculpted garments. And more subtly over at Givenchy mermaid and surfer references came in sophisticated, sharp and skin tight silhouettes with shirttails, posterior fins, ocean wave edges and a slinky sequined mermaid tail-like trouser suit.
