When Kira Jolliffe founded Cheap Date back in 1997, to be joined by editor Bay Garnett in '99, it was as a result of conversations held around a kitchen table; there was nothing polished about it. The publication – a blend of fashion magazine and zine culture that celebrated inclusivity and collaboration rather than the slightly frostier side of the industry – was DIY spirit at its finest, but the duo enlisted fashion luminaries from Karen Elson to Craig McDean (Elson had a column on pieces she stole from backstage at the fashion shows she starred in; McDean would create parodies of fashion campaigns to run instead of regular advertising) to get on board. It's since gone down in history as a cult classic – and now, nearly 20 years later, Garnett (who remains an industry stalwart) and Jolliffe (who now works as a counsellor) are reviving their celebration of individuality and style.
Their new offering, published by IDEA, is aptly titled FANPAGES and consists of 112 pages of fandom; a series of collages and illustrations by the likes of Jemima Kirke, Nick Knight and Stella Tennant, each dedicated to a style genre that they truly adore. There's Simone Rocha's assemblage of various veils, Joseph Szabo's photomontage of teenagers, Self Service's page of red-lipsticked Polaroids, even Tatler's ode to the 80s Sloane Ranger (starring Boris Johnson, Nigella Lawson and Joan Collins). It is utterly delightful – not least because Louis Theroux illustrates and narrates his "classic rugged heroes" from Tony Adams to Marlon Brando.
Speaking to Garnett about FANPAGES is possibly even more charming than flicking through it; it is clearly borne of the warmth that it's trying to communicate. "We've been working on it for about 14 months," she explains. "My father always used to say 'you've always got to have a project,' and when he died a little while ago I think it galvanized me to get off my arse and do what I wanted to do. Kira and I were talking about doing Cheap Date again, and when we were talking about the contents page, we decided we wanted to do a pinboard of fandom. It all just grew from there – and also I realised that I don't have anything in particular that I want to say, I want to see what other people had to say instead!"
In the era of digital moodboards – which, fabulous as they are, can be easily homogenising – there's something refreshing about seeing the manual labour that goes into the layout of a personal collage: Chloë Sevigny Fed-Exed her original childhood pinboard of heartthrobs; Bella Freud dug through her archive photographs to find schoolgirls that she loved including her mother and girls whose uniforms she redesigned and later befriended. "My favourite thing, was knowing a page was coming through and then seeing it, it was like a complete revelation," says Garnett. "I just love the fact that it's pure." And pure it is: pure, and brilliant.
FANPAGES is on sale at DSM London and New York, Comme des Garçons Trading Museum Paris, Marc Jacobs Bookmarc and selected stores around the world and via www.ideanow.online