What AnOther Loves: The Fashion Week Edit II

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2016-02-26

Our fashion week celebration on @anotherloves continues with Prada bauble ear adornments and Juergen Teller 90s nostalgia

Fashion week is still burning brightly (with a little help from Jeremy Scott's incendiary A/W16 collection for Moschino last night), and over on @anotherloves we're continuing our ongoing exploration of one fashion house per day, delving deep into the designers' inspirations and influences for your buying delectation. This week's highlights range from a gloriously futuristic chair à la Simone Rocha to the excellent, out-of-print Juergen Teller tome that proved a key reference point for Marques'Almeida. 

Prada S/S16 was filled with bold statements, from clashing stripes to gold lips, from netted neck embellishments to the big, bauble-like earrings comprised of twinkling sequins of varying sizes. Each look came complete with a complementary pair in an array of hues, including a simple but sparkling black, Prada pink and bright yellow, adding to the flawless flow of the show. As stylist Olivier Rizzo told Jo-Ann Furniss, "Everything has to gel for a show, everything – and the openness of mind and courage it takes for [Miuccia Prada's] thought and word process blows my mind.”

Last year saw the opening of Simone Rocha's inaugural London boutique, a wonderfully curated store that reflects the Irish designer's myriad influences and the strong influence of art and design upon her work. Her subversively girlish clothes sit harmoniously among walls covered with captivating artworks (notably a Francis Bacon triptych) as well as furnishings to die for. She has designed her own pastel pink onyx desk, while the seating options include hand-caved marble plinths by her father John Rocha and minimalist, 1960s plywood chairs by revered Italian product designer Joe Colombo, whose brilliant career was cut short by a heart failure at the age of 41. 

American artist John Chamberlain is most celebrated for his bold, abstract expressionist sculptures created from old automobile parts, twisted and compressed into colourful 3-D collages. For S/S16 Christopher Kane looked to these striking works in the creation of his emotionally charged 'Crash and Repair' collection. As Susie Lau noted in her feature for AnOther, "There’s something brave about describing one’s collection as a “car crash” but Kane knows how to speed into the fast lane of so-wrong-it’s-right territory precisely because his codes and motifs have been so clearly defined and refined early on in his career."

Offering up a much-admired, "filtered" spin on a distinctly 1990s aesthetic, Marques'Almeida's moodboard is simply "the best moodboard," according to hairstylist Duffy. "When you walk into the studio, their wall is covered and every picture is one that I love," he told AnOther. This includes photographs from Juergen Teller's cult photo book Go-Sees, whereby the fashion photographer captured every girl who passed through his studio for a casting between 1998 and 1999. A better selection of 90s nostalgia is extremely hard to find.

Alessandro Michele's S/S16 collection for Gucci was brimming with references from all around the globe – think prints inspired by 18th-century French wallpaper and Japanese blooms, 70s disco and Chinese embroidery. Chinese heritage also influenced the jewellery, with models sporting shortened finger coverings replicating those of the empresses of the Qing dynasty, used to protect their delicate nails.