London Menswear A/W15: The Craig Green Man

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Craig Green A/W15
Craig Green A/W15Photography by Sam Rock

Eddy Martin on the 30 boys who partook in Craig Green's A/W15 poetic masterpiece

After last season’s emotional debut collection, which reportedly reduced onlookers to tears, Craig Green had a tough act to follow. However Green needn’t have worried – A/W15 was a poetic masterpiece – a quietly confident march, exploring our perceptions of uniform and control. “Restriction and release,” read the show notes. “The contrast between protection and vulnerability.”

Green continued to work with Japanese silhouettes and utility wear, in a purist palette of black, white, navy and bottle green, juxtaposed with vibrant red. Symbolic of romance or danger? Green managed to convey both. Casting came courtesy of Eddy Martin, who also played with the idea of tough and tender. AnOther caught up with Martin post-show to discuss his casting process, the collection and the C.G. man.

How did you approach the casting?
In terms of casting, Craig wanted a continuation of what we started last season. We didn’t have any lengthy conversations, it was more of a case of we-know-it-when-we-see-it. Last season was the first time that models’ faces had been fully on display. Previously, they were obscured under hats or structures. It was pretty much a blank canvas for us and an opportunity to start defining who the Craig Green man is.

How did the casting for this show differ from other shows? What were you looking for this time?
His clothes really speak for themselves and there is no point trying to compete with them with distracting features. We aimed for a streamlined line up of young handsome faces, and like the collection, a balance between romantic and tough. Although pretty obvious for a show, a confident walk was paramount. Craig wanted the boys to walk much faster than the average catwalk speed.

Can you describe your casting process
I'm sure it's the same as all casting directors: although I have an idea from the beginning about who could end up in the show, I option boys weeks or months before. It may seem like an extravagant number of models, to anticipate any scenario. We then meet the boys and narrow it down to our favourites, and those best suited for the clothes.

What were the highlights?
Looking at the control screen backstage and seeing all 30 boys out at once for the finale. Just getting to work with Craig and Helen Price, his close collaborator, and their incredible team.

And challenges?
Craig really wanted 30 boys, one model per look, which avoids any changes backstage during the show and it always looks impressive when they all come out at the end. For London, that’s a pretty high number but I think we managed it well.

Words by Mhairi Graham