Don’t be fooled by its apparent sweetness; the natural perfume brand’s latest offering takes its inspiration from an anarchic conceptual artwork
Miami Split, the latest launch from natural, biotech-powered perfume brand Abel, derives its “green, sharp, pithiness” from upcycled banana absolute, explains brand founder Frances Shoemack. Sweet without being cloying, the banana in this gourmand scent is unmistakable and nostalgic – like candy. And yet, once the sweetness recedes, there’s something heavier underneath – a smoky, leather undertone that counterbalances the banana with an edge of sophistication. “Against the banana, we used a white oud, modern and clean, which acts as a kind of structural glue,” she says. “And then labdanum in three different expressions, layered to build texture, depth and a slightly burnt edge – resinous, warm, and a little raw.”
Conceptually, Miami Split takes its cues not from a banana split, but from Maurizio Cattelan’s provocative artwork of the same name – a banana duct-taped to a wall at Art Basel Miami, sold for an extraordinary sum and then eaten by another artist. Something about the audacity of the idea captured brand-founder Shoemack’s imagination, as well as the apparent playfulness of the stunt, laced with its complex, heavier connotations. “The banana is the first thing you encounter, bold and almost absurdly present. But it’s a facade,” she says. “Underneath is something much darker and more complex.”
Like the infamous act of pop art anarchism that inspired it, Miami Split is mischievous – not just for its misleadingly sweet overtones. Presenting natural fragrances that feel decadent and indulgent is enough to ruffle feathers. Just the fact of Abel’s presence at the luxury perfume counter forces the question, by comparison: what are other brands doing to create equally sustainable and safe, non-toxic scents? Meanwhile, the brand continues to develop new fragrances. Shoemack says a new perfume is in the works and will hopefully be released this summer. She won’t give anything away, but promises it’s “new territory”.
Abel’s Miami Split is available now.
