After a season of heavy make-up looks and heavy meals – not to mention yo-yoing between icy winds and stuffy heated interiors – your skin might look and feel flushed, dry, dull and irritated. After all, late nights, crackling fires and bottomless eggnogs add heat to anyone’s cheeks – especially those with rosacea or eczema, says consultant dermatologist Dr Randa Akel, making this time of year prime for flare-ups. 

Cool, cotton garments will soothe itchy skin (consider wool to be your worst enemy) and watching your blood sugar will reduce your chances of inflammation (sugar spikes increase insulin and oil production), but watching your skin routine is essential for a calm complexion. In winter, your skin barrier is already under pressure, and you don’t want to add fuel to the fire by using the wrong cleanser, says Noli representative Dr Kemi Fabusiwa.

Less is more

When it comes to winter skincare routines, “consistency beats complexity every time,” says Dr Fabusiwa. You don’t need fifty steps to force your skin into submission. “A long, complex routine can overwhelm a compromised barrier,” she explains. “A tighter routine removes the risk of overstimulation and gives your skin the breathing room it needs to repair.”

This news might come as a relief — a recent study by Olay shows that 81% of women crave a simpler routine. Members of Generation X yearn for the simplicity of the 80s’ stripped-back skincare regimens. Dr Fabusiwa suggests opting for hydrating barrier repair creams or lipid-rich formulas. Winter-ravaged skin needs more cushioning, fewer irritants and ingredients that strengthen, not strip. Stick to five key formulas: a cleanser, serum, moisturiser, occlusive and an SPF.

The Essentials

A gentle, non-stripping cleanser

This cleanser from French pharmacy brand Mimetique, which is satisfyingly called Skin Cloud, smooths onto skin like melted butter. The balm-to-oil texture makes light work of removing make-up, and the tight ingredients list features a softening, hydrating and soothing mixture of plant oils, waxes and squalane.

Alternatively, Nue Co’s Barrier Culture Cleanser is like a sigh of relief for angry and spot-prone skin types. The gentle gel works to rebuild the skin barrier, reduce redness and lock in moisture with amino acids and probiotics.

A hydrating serum

To give irritated skin a break, look for serums with humectants like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, beta-glucans and panthenol. Combining these moisture magnets with lipid-rich oils, the Double Layer Serum Mist by GLASSFX instantly restores lacklustre complexions. Use it after cleansing or, if your skin feels tight and dry while wearing make-up, spray this right on top for a moisture boost without ruining your beat.

For skin emergencies, Moumoujus’ The Mantle serum brings skin back from the brink via a multi-pronged approach: ectoin soothes and strengthens, exosomes encourage healing, and ceramides lock in moisture. Peptides and stem cells help skin to look plump and juicy, while black tea ferment keeps inflammation in check.

A rich moisturiser

This isn’t a step you want to skimp on. Look at your moisturiser like your skin’s winter coat; it locks everything in and makes you feel comfortable. INNBEAUTY’s refreshing Recharge Gel Cream is a boon for mature skin types and plumps dishevelled skin. For very stressed, itchy and dry complexions, Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Meltdown Recovery Cream launches next month and offers instant relief. Also gentle enough for post-procedure aftercare, it calls on colloidal oatmeal and bisabolol to whip the skin barrier into shape.

Also providing instant relief, VIOLETTE_FR’s Boum-Boum Milk comes in a handy spray bottle and can be used as a toner, serum or moisturiser, which is ideal for travelling back to the city post-Christmas. The creamy spritz hydrates, soothes and improves texture both instantly and over time, and you can layer it for more hydration. Go wild, basically, because you can’t go wrong.

An occlusive layer

If you’re an outdoorsy person then you’ll want to protect your skin from the elements. Enter: The Outset’s Botanical Barrier Balm, which distils ten oils into a rich, non-greasy balm for lips and skin alike. You can even use it as a highlighter or to control flyaways if you want to, and it smells delightfully green – like a lavender bush. The compact tin conveniently fits in pockets, too. 

Exquisitely herbaceous and light, Herbar’s facial oil fortifies skin against environmental aggressors with a silky, fast-absorbing blend of botanical oils. Votary’s Super Barrier Balm is similarly protective: it launches next month with an impressive roster of antioxidants, humectants and vitamins to calm even the most reactive complexions. If you’re the type of person to simply look at a gust of wind and then develop flaky patches, this one’s for you.

Daily SPF

SPF is a ubiquitous bit of kit, no matter the season. You can read all about AnOther’s favourite formulas here, but if we had to pick just one to see you through January, it’d be the Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh. The formula doesn’t sting irritated skin or encourage any breakouts, and its lightweight fluid texture swiftly sinks in without leaving a greasy cast behind.

Just because you’re doing Dry Jan, doesn’t mean your skin has to.