Paying homage to the house’s iconic Phantom Luggage, Celine’s Printemps 2026 New Luggage is a complete joy. It’s funny how the humble smile can transform an attitude
The smile is a universally understood symbol, a non-verbal communication of happiness. There’s a biology behind it – positivity triggers endorphins and neuronal signals to upturn your lips; that muscular contraction, in turn, stimulates more endorphins, dopamine and serotonin, making you scientifically happier. That messaging has, of course, become ubiquitous across the psychology of contemporary culture – horologists habitually set timepieces to 10:10, to make them ‘beam’ at potential buyers, and even our hands are set to places on steering wheels to evoke a smirk. And, presumably, avoid road rage.
The same spirit infused Michael Rider’s debut collection for Celine, an adroit reimagining of Celine’s past, whirling through known and unknown histories to create a fusion for the now that triggered plenty of nostalgic memories of bygone fashion moments, and gave the audience plenty to smile about. Having worked at Celine under Phoebe Philo 15 years ago, Rider described his return to the house as “a complete joy” – which seemed infectious. It was literally translated to his reworking of Celine’s Phantom Luggage bag, first introduced in 2011 – a ghost of the past (it says it in the name) reincarnated as the New Luggage, its side now bisected with the wide ‘grin’ of a curving zip. That’s the simplest, most human thing, and a pretty small detail in a show that was satisfyingly crammed with ideas, yet somehow it leapt out and into most critic’s reviews. I could load up an analysis of that bag with puns – zips have teeth, maybe this is the new ‘face’ of Celine – but honestly, the most interesting thing about this re-imagining of a contemporary accessory classic is how a humble gesture can transform an attitude, evoke desire. I guess those watchmakers are onto something.
Celine New Luggage is available in multiple colours and sizes now.
