An Architecture of Ease Marks Cos’s Return to New York Fashion Week

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Cos Autumn/Winter 2025
Cos Autumn/Winter 2025Courtesy of Cos

Cos’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show sharpened its vision of urban minimalism – and the AnOther fashion team has chosen their favourite pieces to shop now

“A study in contrast, materiality and craftsmanship.” That was how Cos described its Autumn/Winter 2025 collection at New York Fashion Week, the fourth consecutive September the London-based brand has crossed the Atlantic. For a house steeped in urban minimalism, the city is a natural stage – its architecture and relentless movement a mirror of Cos’s own design philosophy, a refinement cutting through the bustle.

The setting was Brooklyn’s Greenpoint Terminal Warehouse, a cavernous industrial shell once home to raves and art fairs. Cos stripped it back, painted it white and suspended a lattice of light boxes that shifted from an amber glow to a hard, brilliant white. The contrast – ruin recast as minimalism – captured the brand’s talent for contradiction. And in a gesture extending beyond the runway, Cos will pass the entire set-up to Rachel Scott – newly appointed creative director of Proenza Schouler and the force behind Diotima – for her show the following day, lights, benches and back-of-house fittings included.

For Cos, history is less about nostalgia than discipline. Founded on the premise of creating essentials that resist seasonal churn while remaining embedded in the present, the brand reaffirmed that ethos this season. Black, navy, steel grey and soft neutrals anchored the palette, while pony-effect textures, supple leather and the play of matte against shine added tactility. Sheer fabrics revealed the body in motion; heritage-inspired checks surfaced across outerwear, accessories and beyond – memory translated into modern statement.

In its womenswear, silhouettes softened without losing their architectural edge. Cocooning volumes in scarves and high-neck drapes evoked shelter and intimacy, while cinched waists and open necklines traced echoes of Dior’s New Look, reimagined for a woman who slips from day to night without changing her clothes. A softly sculpted silk dress offered multiple lives through styling, embodying Cos’s vision of adaptability. Accessories from leather loafers to Mary Janes and sock boots reinforced the coherence: everything belonging, everything distilled.

Menswear on the other hand explored utility elevated to elegance, made fractionally unusual. Oversized proportions and sharp shoulders lent grandeur to classic tailoring, while tonal layering blurred uniform into something more poetic. The details were pragmatic – buttoned epaulettes, deep pockets – but never merely functional. Basketweave knits and chenille textures introduced warmth and tactility in craftsmanship designed to be discovered on the rails of Cos’s stores.

Unlike labels built on spectacle, Cos’s mastery lies in restraint – knowing when to pare back, when to let material and cut do the talking. Yet in this collection, there was unmistakable theatre in the interplay of sheer and solid, the procession of checked looks, the play of light revealing and concealing. As the show closed, what lingered was not only the image of 47 looks – refined, confident, exacting – but a reaffirmation of Cos’s place in the fashion conversation. A brand born of essentials, but one that understands essentials as living forms, reshaped season after season with the ever changing needs from one’s wardrobe. It is an architecture of ease, and Cos is still building.

Selected by our fashion team, shop a handful of favourite pieces below now – from a draped and checked skirt to a silk maxi dress.  

Select pieces from the Cos Autumn/Winter 2025 show are available immediately at Cos stores and online, with limited numbers continuing to drop throughout the season. Shop now

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