Fringed and embroidered, woven and interlaced – intricate workmanship and streamlined silhouettes are at the heart of Lucie and Luke Meier’s vision of modern heritage at Jil Sander. For Spring/Summer 2020, the wife-and-husband duo looked towards the Viennese Secession movement of the 1900s: “It challenged convention and the established concept of the classical, and proposing a completely new aesthetic and approach to design, living, dressing, and art in general,” they say.
Taken from the S/S20 issue of AnOther Magazine, photographer Estelle Hanania and Dazed’s senior fashion editor-at-large Elizabeth Fraser-Bell capture the collection; alongside these images, Lucie and Luke Meier tell AnOther the story behind it, in their own words.
“We were in Vienna for a couple of days last January, right after the New Year, and our trip was extremely inspiring. We wanted to go deeper with this feeling, and make something new from it. [We were thinking about] the craft and the idea of the Gesamtkunstwerk: a breaking of the traditional codes to define a new movement. Challenging convention and the established concept of the classical, and proposing a completely new aesthetic and approach to design, living, dressing, and art in general.
“[Craft] is important because it implies handwork, which is luxury. The work of a human hand to create something not achievable by machine, the room for imperfection. We also think it is extremely important for the young generation to learn craft and to keep techniques alive. We value handwork, because it means time in the making but also time to learn a craft. The marbled prints were created by hand by a traditional printmaker. We like this old technique that still feels and looks so modern. We were very attracted to the psychedelic nature and feel of this print, but also the connection to nature and real stone patterning. In the end, nature is always the best inspiration.
“How do we hope a woman would feel in this collection? Free, beautiful, desirable, strong, determined, and most importantly, happy!”
All clothing and accessories from the Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2020 collection.
Hair: Tomohiro Ohashi at Management Artists using Mr Smith. Make-up: Anthony Preel at Artlist. Models: Assia Diallo, Farah Taouza-Chikh, Zuzanah Livarova, Lubna Playoust and Rocio Weidema. Casting: Gabrielle Lawrence at People-File. Manicure: Beatrice Eni at Agence Saint Germain using Kure Bazaar. Photographic assistant: Mickaël Bambi. Styling assistant: Noémie Ninot. Hair assistant: Leiko K. Make-up assistant: Louisa Trapier. Production: Map. Special thanks to Diamantino Labo Photo.
This story originally featured in AnOther Magazine Spring/Summer 2020, which is on sale internationally now.