How to Wear Your Winter Coat, Inspired by 1990s Campaigns

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Kate Moss for Calvin Klein A/W94Photography by Patrick Demarchelier

From Calvin Klein’s clean minimalism to Prada’s Italianate luxury, we answer the perennial problem of how to style outerwear for the colder months

The winter coat is an investment piece to be unpacked and de-mothballed every October – but loyal though you may be to the cut and colour of your favoured outer layer, styling tricks surrounding it change from year to year. In preparation for a cold snap, we looked to the 1990s’ unforgettable fashion campaigns for A/W17 inspiration. Whether a belted trench, a shiny silk jacket or fluffy overcoat , there’s something to cater for every need.

1. With nothing underneath, inspired by Kate Moss for Calvin Klein A/W94 (above)

90s-era Calvin Klein was renowned for its clean silhouettes, neutral colour palettes and ability to produce clothes that exude an all-American nonchalance for business and pleasure alike. Here, the brand takes the adage “less is more” more literally, with a fresh-faced Kate Moss swathed in a blanket coat and not much else besides. Like Moss, pair your oversized coat with a sensible lace-up shoe, for a look that’s both alluring and practical.

2. Metallic, inspired by Ehrinn Cummings for Gucci S/S98

It may not be the most insulating of materials, but a silk jacket or coat is unrivalled in its iridescence. Tom Ford’s streamlined iteration for Gucci S/S98 in a glacial metallic blue would carry over into the colder months; an ideal solution to throw over a fine-gauge poloneck and wool trouser for a seasonal cocktail event.

3. Lady-like, inspired by Audrey Marnay for Miu Miu A/W97

Reminiscent of a lady-like ladybird, the elfin Audrey Marnay wears her prim and proper polka dot coat with aplomb. Channellng the spirit of Audreys-past, Marnay could be mistaken for a 1990s reincarnation of Hepburn, complete with peter pan collar and Miu Miu mary janes.

4. Cybergoth, inspired by Karen Elson for Chanel A/W97

The leather trench coat is a wardrobe staple of cybergoths the world over, often worn to demonstrate a devotion to the style of Keanu Reeves in the 1999 sci-fi thriller The Matrix. Kym Barrett, the film’s costume director, must have considered Chanel A/W97 during the preliminary stages of design – as this patent belted trench pays tribute to all the sartorial tropes necessary for life in dystopia. Take a tip from Karen Elson and team yours with opaque tights and a smoky eye.

5. Dress like dessert, inspired by Nadja Auermann for Prada A/W92

Nadja Auermann wears double cream Prada like a luxurious layer of human tiramisu – and the downy fluff trimming her lapels ensures that, although lacking a jumper, she will remain cosy throughout the day. Auermann’s hair, piled atop her head in the shape of a cannoli, is offset by cappuccino-coloured lips; tempting though it may be to sip on a coffee while wearing this look, however, it is not reccomended. Dry cleaning can only do so much by way of stain removal.