If you’ve never heard of Keith McNally, chances are you’ve eaten at one of his many restaurants. The founder of New York institutions like The Odeon, Balthazar, Pastis, Morandi and Minetta Tavern, to name a few, McNally is many things – just make sure you don’t call him a restaurateur.
After suffering from a stroke which left him partially immobilised and speech-impaired, he set out to write a memoir. The result, I Regret Almost Everything, is a self-deprecating, unpretentious, candid portrayal of a boy who grew up in east London in the 1950s only to serendipitously invent the New York downtown dining scene as we know it. Bookended by his near-death experiences and journey to recovery, McNally traverses through his many regrets with a refreshing honesty and humour, from the origins of his Parisian brasserie-inspired fare to his failed restaurants, failed marriages and later, his growing Instagram notoriety.
Whether you’ve encountered McNally through his best-loved burgers or his polarising social media presence, I Regret Almost Everything will leave you salivating for a meal at one of his institutions in the hopes of a chance encounter or selfie with one of New York’s most prolific restaurateurs.
Below, Keith McNally answers some quickfire questions about I Regret Almost Everything.
Jodie Hill: Of your 19 restaurants, failed and succeeded, do you have a favourite?
Keith McNally: Lucky Strike.
JH: Why?
KM: When I was first divorced in 1992, I lived two blocks away from Lucky Strike, and I have terrifically fond memories of eating there night after night with my three young children.
JH: I saw that you still go to E Pellicci in Bethnal Green, the London neighbourhood you grew up in. After living in New York for five decades, are there any parts of London or British culture that you miss?
KM: Yes. I miss the British theatre.
JH: A lot of restaurants have lost their atmosphere and fallen victim to TikTok hype, small plates and natural wine. How do you feel about this new type of dining culture?
KM: The most fashionable restaurant is always one that hasn’t opened. This hasn’t changed in 50 years and I don’t suppose it will do.
JH: Have your customers gotten better or worse over the years?
KM: Better by far.
After two near-death experiences, is there anything that you’re afraid of? “Food critics!” – Keith McNally
JH: How did Richard E Grant become the voice for your audiobook?
KM: I made up a wish list of English actors I wanted to read the audiobook and Richard E Grant was third on the list.
JH: Who were the top two?
KM: Ralph Fiennes and Kenneth Branagh – who were my first and second choice – said no, and Richard agreed to do it. In retrospect, I’m really glad that Fiennes and Branagh turned it down because I honestly can’t imagine any other actor reading the book as brilliantly as Richard does.
JH: You reference your working-class upbringing throughout the book. Since your stroke impaired your speech, did you consider how Richard’s accent would change the way listeners interpret your stories?
KM: Unfortunately, I lost my working-class accent at 16 when I became a young stage actor. Though when reading the audiobook, the accent isn’t as important as the rhythm and absence of melodrama. Richard’s reading works because it’s beautifully understated.
JH: You write about the ability to be able to change your mind, which is very important and often dismissed by society. When was the last time you changed your mind about something?
KM: This morning, I actually changed my mind about Donald Trump. Without proper research, I thought Trump was the worst American president in a hundred years. But after much homework, I discovered that Trump is the worst American President in two hundred years.
JH: There is a chapter towards the end of the book where you discuss your Instagram account, including the well-known banning of James Corden from dining at any of your restaurants. Have you ever regretted a post you made on Instagram?
KM: A few weeks ago, I posted that Lauren Sánchez was “revolting-looking.” Even though Sánchez has clearly had a ton of plastic surgery, it was wrong to call her “revolting-looking”, and I regret it.
JH: After two near-death experiences, is there anything that you’re afraid of?
KM: Food critics!
JH: I know you hate this question, but ... what’s next?
KM: I’m writing a play at the moment.
I Regret Almost Everything by Keith McNally is published by Simon & Schuster, and is out now.