The AnOther Guide to... Copenhagen

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Nyhavn,_Copenhagen
Nyhavn, Copenhagen

As Copenhagen International Fashion Fair commences, Daisy Hoppen shares her favourite spots in the Danish capital

Copenhagen is a European city which truly offers some of the most extraordinary food, design and architecture, as well as one of the most enviable lifestyles around. Fashion wise, the Danish capital’s unwavering support of companies supporting sustainability means Copenhagen International Fashion Fair – which began yesterday – has become a leader in its kind. I have been visiting Copenhagen for a number of years, and alongside the renowned attractions and restaurants, such as Hans Christian Anderson’s Little Mermaid and Noma, there are plenty of off-the-beaten track places to discover. Here are my favourite spots.

1. Apollo Bar & Kantine

One of Frederik Bille Brahe’s Copenhagen restaurants, Apollo has an emphasis often on plant-based food – all enjoyed in the courtyard of the historic 17th-century Danish Baroque palace of Kunsthal Charlottenberg, now also the contemporary art museum of the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts. In the evenings, you’ll find everyone drinking and dancing in the courtyard, situated on Copenhagen’s’ famous Nyhavn canal (see above). For breakfast, Atelier September does the best avocado on toast in the whole city, plus matcha tea and fresh blood orange juice. Nyhavn 2, 1051 København

2. Spaghetteria

Each day there is a new set menu of around five or six dishes. It’s the opposite of an old-fashioned Italian restaurant – there’s a big open kitchen, endless Aperol Spritz and some of the best low-key Italian food I have ever eaten, all enjoyed with a 90s pop playlist playing in the background. Vester Farimagsgade 2, 1606 København

3. Conditori La Glace 

Founded in 1870, Conditori La Glace is Copenhagen’s oldest and most famous patisserie. With pastel-pink walls, green marble surfaces and lots of paper doilies, it’s worth the queue to eat their famous Princess Thyra cake (Thyra was a Danish princess when La Glace was founded, who was married to the Duke of Cumberland), which consists of choux pastry covered with icing in rum, chocolate or orange flavours (plus, everything on offer is available with extra cream on the side). It’s one of the most indulgent patisserie selections you will ever encounter. Skoubogade 3, 1158 København

4. Lille Bakery

A delicious bakery in the industrial setting of Refshaleøen, locals cycle to pick up some of the best homemade bread to be found in the city (you can also organise a bread subscription!) – others stay to enjoy breakfast and strong coffee. Refshalevej 213A, 1432 København

5. La Banchina

The perfect place to visit in the warm summer months, La Banchina is a 16-seat restaurant and wine bar, with an on-site sauna as well as access to an outdoor swimming canal. Go sit on the docks with a glass of natural biodynamic wine and locally sourced food, enjoy dipping your toes or just jump in. Copenhagen has some of the cleanest canal water in the world so in theory you swim all around the city. Refshalevej 141, 1432 København

6. The Rudolph Tegner Museum

Under an hour’s drive out of Copenhagen, this beautiful sculpture park is not as well known as Louisiana (noted below) but worth a visit in the summer months in particular. Rudolph Tegner (1873-1950) was a Danish symbolist and sculptor, his dream to build a museum for his works was realised in the 1930s, a large concrete building – visionary in design for his time. Today, the museum houses contemporary as well as works by Tegner. Museumsvej 19, 3120 Dronningmølle

7. Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Just outside of Copenhagen (accessible by train, as well as car), the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is situated on the North Sealand coast and has one of the most spectacular views – on a good day you can see the coast of Sweden. Louisiana has a very strong in-house collection of works, from international to more local artists through all key genres of art. Over the years, they have also exhibited solo globally renowned retrospectives such as artists like Louise Bourgeois. Gl Strandvej 13, 3050 Humlebæk

8. The Apartment

A beautifully curated apartment in Copenhagen located in ‘Old’ Copenhagen. Everything within the space is for sale – from the paintings to ceramics to furniture – it rotates its look and feel on a regular basis. The owner (Tina Seidenfaden) now has a pop-up space in the heart of the city, too, which is also worth visiting – she has showcased significant works from renowned designers that include Ilse Crawford, Jessica Ogden and Muller van Severen to name but a few. A more recent addition to the ‘Apartment’ world is that the original apartment now has a space that you can rent – expect fresh flowers, crisp Egyptian cotton bedding, and of course exceptional design. Overgaden Neden Vandet 33, 1.sal, 1414 København

9. Jerome Vintage

Vintage shopping in Copenhagen is some of the best in Europe, with small shops, independent sellers and weekend markets. However, the general consensus is that Jerome has one of the best curated selections in the city. Gl. Kongevej 105, 1850 Frederiksberg

10. Tage Anderson

Tage Anderson is of the most beautiful flower shops I have ever visited, complete with giant antique bird cages, ever-changing floral seasonal displays and a beautiful outside courtyard in the centre of Copenhagen. Ny Adelgade 12, 1104 København

11. Ganni – Postmodern

Walking around Copenhagen, Ganni has almost become a uniform for its inhabitants over the years. New to their roster is their ‘Postmodern’ store – set within an old post office, it sells past season items, one-off samples and other rare pieces from the brand. In a time of fast fashion, it’s a lovely way to explore a brand’s retail world. Overgaden Oven Vandet 40, 1415 København

12. HAY House

HAY is world-renowned as a go-to place for Scandi design and interiors. In the centre of Copenhagen, they have a store termed ‘HAY House’, which is spread over a number of floors and showcases a huge range of ideas and collections. From chic glitter scrubbing brushes to doing the washing up with, to the ideal tin plates for picnics and unique one-off pieces of furniture, it’s a masterclass in interiors and a retail experience and a haven from the main busy street. Østergade 61, 2, 1100 København