Yohji’s multi-generational casting was an eclectic canvas for a novel collection that bridged historical boundaries, delivering period details scattered amidst a bevy of modern sportswear references.

Graphic knits met 3-piece suiting, paperbag trousers were worn with Air Jordan-like sneakers, and a finale of crushed velvet gowns came emblazoned with vintage pin-up girls. Snow white crows encircled coats in sombre black and a deep emerald green, while cherries and skeletons played across heavy black knitwear (one portly gentleman wore a red apple over his heart). Tailoring seemed rough-hewn, and sometimes came patched in multiple tweeds, while military coats were strapped across the chest and accented with patent red collars.

Walking to the mellow tones of UK vocalist Fink, Yohji’s men radiated a warm confidence and comfort in their stride – maybe due to the basketball sneakers, but also in deference to the light and emotive way that the designer plays with masculine codes of dress, arriving always at his signature junction of sartorial sobriety and personal good humour.

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