Masters of Black, MoMu

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—by A BLOG curated by / Friday, March 26, 2010

Last night Antwerp’s fashion museum MoMu opened its doors on the new ‘Masters of Black’ exhibition, celebrating the darkest fashion from historical costume to cutting-edge couture. Lurking in the shadowy rooms were many of the finest pieces from designers close to our fold, with stunning creations from our curators and their collaborators.

Belgian fashion holds a strong presence in the exhibition, as does the Paris catwalk and the ceremonial and formal clothing of bygone eras. Separated into thematic areas, the exhibition explores the concepts of specific designers and wider themes such as ‘Romance & Rebellion’, texture, film noir and the ‘Little Black Dress’. Mannequins are swathed in the most luxurious of black fabrics – from heavy wools to the lightest silks, techno-synthetics to feathers and fur. Both embellishment and minimalism are celebrated, though the favour certainly swings to the former, with decadent displays of beading, jewellery, pleating and ruching.

A coat and dress from Yohji Yamamoto in 'Masters of Black', MoMu

A stunning ballgown from Givenchy haute couture by Riccardo Tisci stands guard over the exhibition, and a final salute comes from a simple shift dress with asymmetric pleating from Yohji Yamamoto, (above). Comme des Garçons takes centrestage with deconstructed silky jackets, next to Junya Watanabe’s thick quilted dress from FW09. Ann Demeulemeester personally styled her own display, using a mix of new and older pieces for a sparkling, gothic display featuring chainmail, crystal beading, leather coats and a coque feathered waistcoat. Raf Simons‘ has taken over the circular anteroom for a dramatic display of capes, and Nick Knight’s film for Gareth Pugh plays in the cinema room.
Capes by Raf Simons, in 'Masters of Black', MoMu

Other screens dot the exhibition, showing videos from Comme des Garçons and Raf Simons, and several mannequins revolve in a soft, eerie movement. Accessories lie trapped under glass cabinets – with feathered fans, ebony hair combs and other vintage pieces, and a leather-covered skull from Natalia Brilli.

Other contributions from our collaborators include a cut-out skull dress from Undercover’s Jun Takahashi,

Dress by Jun Takahashi of UNDERCOVER in 'Masters of Black', MoMu

a fluid wool skirt and jacket from Haider Ackermann,

Jacket and skirt by Haider Ackermann in 'Masters of Black', MoMu
black bow dresses from Dirk Van Saene,

Dirk Van Saene's bow dresses, in 'Masters of Black', MoMu

and a triangular-shaped mourning dress from Viktor & Rolf.

Dress by Viktor & Rolf in 'Masters of Black', MoMu
The exhibition is directed by Kaat Debo – editor of A#6 & A#7, with scenography conducted by Bob Verhelst. The delicate balance of history juxtaposed with contemporary references is refreshing, offering new context to catwalk garments and allowing the viewer to think deeper and darker into the world of black fashion – where it began, and where it is going.