Krystle Carrington Vs. Patent Fetishism at Balenciaga S/S17

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Spandex refinement and flasher macs appeared at Demna Gvasalia's latest Balenciaga offering. Here, we examine the woman he's dressing

TextOlivia SingerIllustrationAhmad Swaid

This year, few trends have appeared as proclaimed as 1980s power dressing – and nobody wears it better than the S/S17 Balenciaga woman, who teamed her Dynasty suiting with Jonny Trunk fetishism. There was rubber and patent alongside angular Claude Montana tailoring: it was Working Girl by day and the glory era of Les Bains Douche by night. Creative director Demna Gvasalia’s impact on the industry has been remarkably visible this season – his subversion of luxury conventions and emphatic use of structural silhouettes alike – and here, couture techniques were applied to spandex instead of Cristobal’s beloved silk gazaar, while flasher macs came with sharply tailored shoulders. It was a modern vision of the storied house, steeped in Gvasalia’s remarkable ability to transform the lurid into the desirable, and a proud statement that his aesthetic confidence is certainly here to stay. We’ll raise our martini glasses to that.