Scuba Raver vs. Tech Sybarite at Maison Margiela

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We decipher Galliano's woman for Maison Margiela S/S17, from scuba suiting to future-perfect accoutrements

TextNatalie RiggIllustrationAhmad Swaid

The hallowed house of Maison Margiela never fails to deliver an explosion of new ideas – forms and notions that mingle in the mind long after the close of each show. Most recently, we’ve had the pleasure of reflecting upon Galliano’s exhilarating new Spring/Summer 2017 collection for the Parisian label, which presented an enigmatic creature who was both of this earth, and also not. She appeared futuristic, elegant and highly adventurous in terry-towelling bloomers, deconstructed scuba suiting and Tabi boots soled with vivid rubber. She donned a soft cloche hat that only partially covered her head, bearing a similarity to the pneumatic bionic lead Ava in sci-fi film, Ex Machina (2015). A microphone headpiece framed her make-up, accentuating the vivid glitter markings that circled her eyes like a video game avatar or 1990s raver. “Familiarity must be unsettled,” declared the show’s press notes – and it was, rather spectacularly.