Blame and Lebon were both key figures within the 1980s punk scene and the Buffalo movement, a revolutionary style that blended high fashion with the street, an idea replicated within their story in the magazine. Their patchworked imagery shows Derby calfskin footwear ambling over gravel, silver and wax cord jewellery tangled around balls of string and luggage tags laid out beside crushed graters, all reminiscent of a John Chamberlain sculpture, who influenced the Dior Homme summer collection with his Art Deco metalwork. Skinheaded models Haris Seoudy, Jevan and Paul C feature wearing key pieces of the season: cobalt blue, short suits and toggled prune hooded parkas.
"You can't get more British than a skinhead!" — Judy Blame
“I am used to working with a different scale and style with my accessories,” explains Blame. “The things I chose were small and perfect. I put them on the boys and then we photographed them in frames and collages, playing around with size and situation.” Here, AnOther speaks to Blame about his inspiration for the story:
How did you decide upon the location?
It was shot at Mark's studio and home in West London, and on the streets. Comfort, chaos and creativity! Mark’s studio is a sanctuary, it holds a lot of our history and is full of texture. The comfort of the past re-used in our future.
What are your favourite streets in London?
The Tower of London always takes my breath away.
How did you decide which accessory pieces to use?
I started with the shoes and worked my way up.
Did you encounter any problems when working on the accessory story?
Not to get too distracted by the fabulous clothes and boys.
What were your thoughts on casting?
You can't get more British than a skinhead!
What was the last thing that inspired you?
The last thing that truly inspired me was the Hannah Hoch exhibition at The Whitechapel Gallery.
Text by Mhairi Graham