— March 6, 2013 —
A mathematical guide to the key inspirations and references in designers' collections by Laura Bradley, illustrated by Tom Baxter
Christopher Kane A/W13 One can always rely on Christopher Kane to serve up diverse ingredients for an interesting Fashion Equation. This season, his collection was more anticipated than most, following the recent majority stake aquisition of the brand by French conglomerate PPR. It was also the biggest show (60 looks in total) the designer had staged in his seven-year career.
Kane can always be credited with brilliant casting. This season, the Scot opened his show with Drake Burnette, a 26-year-old Texan who recently starred as the lead in Larry Clark's Marfa Girl. Burnette doesn't have any acting experience and has recently graduated from a degree in art history. "She was incredible, extraordinary, and did everything I asked of her and more", explained the acclaimed director in a recent interview for Dazed Digital.
"Kane focused his autumn/winter 2013 research on an MRI scan of a healthy human brain"
The body is a key interest for Kane. At the beginning of his career, his graduate collection focused on bodycon – figure-hugging dresses with chainmail detail. Seasons on, he has turned his attention to the anotomical, focusing his autumn/winter 2013 research on an MRI scan of a healthy human brain. The strking visual provided a graphic image not just for the show's invite, but also adorning sweaters and dresses which will no doubt become as iconic as his roaring gorilla.
However, the highlight of the show was arguably the less obvious details. On closer inspection, the beautiful flowers dotted across dresses and shirts turned out to be a rosette arrangement of delicate feathers.
Laura Bradley is the Commissioning Editor of AnOther and published her first series of Fashion Equations in May 2008. Tom Baxter is an illustrator currently living and working in London.